In my early twenties, I went on a camping trip with three girlfriends to the eastern sierras. We had a borrowed truck, a tent with holes, and we ate out of the same tub of pasta salad for three days (these are the things you do as a young adult to be able to travel).
After two days of hiking around Mammoth, we drove into Yosemite. As we were making our way to the valley, we saw a turnout that had a great view to Half Dome, so we pulled over. Amid the tourists taking photos was a man set up with a telescope, giving people a view of the hikers making their way up the cables of Half Dome. As my friends and I stopped to take a look, this man turned to us and confidently said, "The next time you girls are here, we'll be watching you go up the cables!"
I really had to keep from laughing out loud. Me? Climb Half Dome? Yeah right, dude. You see, I've never considered myself an "active" person. Never participated willingly in gym class, did not own workout clothes, and my idea of a hike was really more of a walk. But that's what this blog is about - turns out you don't have to be a fitness junkee to be a hiker.
On our way out of Yosemite, we stopped to hike Lembert Dome. This was not my idea - I was sore from the previous day's hike, it was getting late in the day, and I had been promised a dinner besides pasta salad that night. I was ready to head out. But, popular vote prevailed, and we started this easy hike that I was not ready for.
Despite only being a three mile hike, I got exhausted quick. Maybe it was the elevation, maybe it was the fact that I hadn't put my body to so much work since band camp, but I was stopping a lot and falling behind the group. I felt so defeated. I decided once I was home from this trip I was never hiking again. But, not wanting to be left in the forest, my feet dragged on. Finally, the trees started to clear and we reached the top of the dome. And when I got to the top and looked around... I was breathless for a whole new reason.
It was stunning. The sun was setting over Yosemite, nothing but trees as far as the eye could see, and I could not believe how much more beautiful the world was on top of this rock than from down in a car. I was sold, hiking was absolutely worth it. I wondered, if the view was so beautiful on top of Lembert Dome, how much more beautiful could it be on top of Half Dome? That was when I decided, I don't care what it takes, I am doing Half Dome.
It took two years of planning and training after that point, but I made it to the top of Half Dome, and I'm going to tell you how. How I got the permit, trained for the hike, and found the motivation to keep going when I thought I couldn't. My brother will be the first to tell you I was the slowest hiker on planet earth that day, but I still made it. Hopefully, after reading this, you'll be inspired to do it too!
Getting a Permit
So first, the least fun part about planning this trip... getting the permit. Unfortunately, you can't just decide to climb Half Dome at a moment's notice, you need a permit to climb the cables to the top. The Half Dome cables are up from roughly late May to early October, and the application period for the permit begins in March (side note - this was the process I followed in 2017, and was still the way permits were issued in 2018. The procedure can change from year to year). The permit to climb the Half Dome cables is one of the most difficult permits to acquire for a day hike in any national park, so I thought out every angle to increase my chances.
Only 300 people are allowed up the cables per day. You can take up to six people on one permit. When the application period opens in March, you can apply for up to seven days you would be able to climb the cables. After the application period closes, permits are issued through a lottery system, and the lucky applicants will get a permit for one of the days they applied for. The dates with the highest demand tend to be Saturdays and Sundays, between Memorial Day and Labor Day. To increase my odds, I applied for weekdays in September.
As another way of increasing the chances of getting a permit I asked my brother, who also wanted to go, to apply for a permit as well. When applying, you will need to name one group leader and one alternate leader who must be present to take your group up the cables. Permits are non-transferable, meaning, your great aunt can't apply and give you her permit. Multiple applications in the same name will be disqualified.
It turns out weekdays in September must be in incredibly low demand because my brother and I both got a permit. Success! If you didn't succeed during the pre-season lottery, all unclaimed permits will be issued during a daily lottery. You can apply two days in advance, and find out if you got a permit the day before the permit is valid. You can apply for a permit during the pre-season and daily lottery
here.
Another note - if you only get the permit for the cables, you will have to do the hike in one day. There is the option of splitting the hike into two days by camping in Little Yosemite Valley. If I do Half Dome again, I will probably do this, because Little Yosemite Valley is a quiet, pristine place to camp away from the crowded campsites at the bottom of Yosemite. However, to do this you will need to apply for a wilderness permit, in addition to the permit for the Half Dome cables. You will also have to be in great physical shape, since you'll be backpacking with your campsite. You can find instructions to apply for a wilderness permit
here.
Speaking of planning, while you're getting a permit, you'll also want to...
Get a Campsite
You don't necessarily need to stay in Yosemite to do the Half Dome hike, but I recommend you do, and here's why. Most people start the hike at sunrise. If you have to drive to the valley floor, your looking at a 40 minute to an hour drive from the time you enter the park. Factor in the time to get ready in the morning and drive to the entrance, and you could be looking at a 3 am wake up call. Not sure about all of you but I like my sleep, thank you very much. Not to mention, I guarantee the last thing you will want to do after this hike is drive an hour or more back to camp. We were lucky to be able to walk to the shower after this hike.
Yosemite has plenty of lodging options to chose from. You can reserve a good old-fashioned patch of dirt to pitch a tent, or you can stay a night in the luxurious (I'm assuming it's fancy, based on the cost of a room per night, although I have not been inside) Majestic Yosemite Lodge. We stayed in the Housekeeping Camp, which I would recommend. While not cheap, it's less expensive than the hotel or lodges in Yosemite, and easier to reserve than a campground.
The "cabins" at Housekeeping camp are three block walls with a tarp as the fourth wall. I'll admit, having the experience of camping without having to set up a tent is pretty nice. Each campsite has a fire pit and a picnic table, and bathrooms within walking distance. Inside the cabin is a bunk bed and full size bed, with a mattress. The cabins also have one electric light and an outlet. Best of all, the cabins were a short walk from the Merced River and a 5 minute drive to the trail head.
Beautiful views near our campsite
Reservations for any place in Yosemite book up quick for the summer months, so plan early. When I booked the campsite in April, I was getting one of the last few spots available for September. You can view all your Yosemite lodging options
here.
Okay, you've got your permit and made reservations. That means it's time to, you guessed it...
Train for the Hike
The Half Dome hike is 16 miles round trip (a lot of sources will say 14... I assure you, it's 16), adding in the 1/2 mile from the parking lot to the trail head, and you need to be ready for a 17 mile hike. Some people are in such good shape, they could roll out of bed tomorrow and do this hike no problem... but not very many people. As mentioned before I am not an athletic or active person, so I started training about a year in advance.
I prepared by doing about a hike a week, starting out small, then gradually extending the distance I was able to go. In between hikes I did cardio exercises at home, gradually extending the length of the workouts. You will also carry all your food, water and extras on your pack during the hike. So when I was training, I hiked with a full backpack and a gallon of water to get used to the weight.
You will also go up 4800 ft in elevation from the valley floor to the top of the dome, which is no easy feat. Half Dome peaks at 8842 ft in elevation, where the air is thinner. The most demanding part of the hike is also where you will be getting the least amount of oxygen, meaning your body has to do more with less. Aside from the physical exhaustion, altitude sickness can set in quickly at these elevations.
Altitude sickness didn't hit my radar as a real concern, until a few months before the hike. My friend and I were camping and did a shorter hike around Mammoth Lakes. It was so short, I didn't think anything of it. However, we drove from Southern California (practically sea level) to Mammoth and attempted this hike the same day. By the end of this "simple hike", I had to ask my friend to pull over to the side of the road because I was sick. Yeah, not a fun experience. Do yourself a favor and make sure you do a few hikes at higher elevations to prepare for the adjustment. You'll also want to spend a day at higher elevation before starting the Half Dome hike, to give yourself time to adjust.
What to Bring
This is a roughly 12 hour hike, in an area where the weather is subject to change quickly. You will need all your food, water, clothes, and other "just in case" items in one pack. Below is a list of what I would recommend bringing, with links to purchase some of these items on Amazon. All links are affiliate links and I do receive compensation, however, these are all items I myself purchased and would recommend.
- Plenty of high protein food
- Hiking shoes with EXCELLENT grip. The cables going up the dome are on a smooth granite rock, and one small slip can be a life threatening fall. DO NOT attempt this hike in tennis shoes.
- A first aid kit
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Hat
- A flashlight, since there's a good chance part of this hike will be in the dark.
- Toilet paper and a Ziploc bag because you will not have access to restrooms for most of the hike, and if you pack it in you need to pack it out.
The Hike Itself
We started the hike around 5 am. Starting this early has a few advantages; it's much cooler, less crowded on the trail, and helps ensure you beat the crowds to the cables. It does mean the trail is pitch black when you set out, so we used flashlights. It was a little spooky, but we did get to the top of Vernal Falls just as the moon was setting, which was a beautiful sight, one of many from that day. We made it to the top of Nevada Falls shortly after sunrise. The steps up the falls are steep and slippery, and you'll feel like you made a huge accomplishment getting to the top of Nevada Falls... but your only about 1/4 of the way to Half Dome.
View from above Nevada Falls
The next few miles took us through Little Yosemite Valley, along the Merced River. Use your water purifier to fill up at the river; this is your only access to water until you pass the river again on your way down. From here on out, the only other people we saw on the trail were hikers making their way to Half Dome.
The Merced River in Little Yosemite Valley
The exit from Little Yosemite Valley into the wilderness marks the halfway point to the top of Half Dome. From here it's a long, gradual incline to the base of the sub dome. You'll feel completely submersed in the wilderness, and it's wonderful. At one point my group stopped for water, and two deer jumped out of the forest and crossed us on the path. We just stood in silence and amazement, watching them hesitantly walk by us and continue on their way.
This was also the part of the trail that seemed to go on the longest. For most of this part of the hike, you can't see Half Dome, so you really don't know how close you are. A couple times I would turn around a bend, expecting to see the sub-dome, only to see more trees and feel completely discouraged. It may sound cheesy, but at times like this when I felt tired or defeated, I just reminded myself, "You trained for this. You want this. You can do it." That simple mantra helped me push through a lot. Eventually, I was rewarded with the granite steps leading up to Half Dome and a ranger checking permits (the only ranger we saw that day).
For those afraid of heights, the sub-dome will be as much or more of a challenge than climbing the cables. You're above tree line, going up steep steps, with a clear view down to the valley. There are no cables to hold on to. I saw a few people struggling with their fear of heights on this part of the trail. This is not meant to discourage anyone who is afraid of heights from going, most of these people pushed through and finished their hike. If you believe you can do it, you probably can.
We finally made it to the cables at 11:30 am, although most people who leave at 5 am get to the cables earlier. Luckily, even though we got to the cables a bit late, we didn't face any crowds going up. Choosing a weekday towards the end of the season worked in our favor, but I also think some people called off their hike due to multiple fires burning on the west side of Yosemite. Aside from adding an unfortunate haze to our photos, the fires thankfully didn't affect the hike.
Looking at the cables made me feel a sense of pride, determination, and intimidation. It's hard to get a sense of how tall and steep the cable route is until you're on it. If you struggle with heights, or worry about your safety on the cable route, you can invest in a harness and clip yourself to the cables. At the very least, you will need hiking shoes with excellent grip and rubber coated gloves for this part of the hike. While rare, accidents and deaths do occur on the cable route. Most of these accidents occur during inclement weather. The granite rock becomes incredibly slippery in the rain, and a wet cable is hard to hold onto. If there are clouds ahead, the best bet is to turn around.
Thankfully, the skies were clear when we arrived, and the summer crowds had calmed down, leaving the cable route pretty open. I went up sans harness (sorry, mom...) and took my time going up, stopping every so often to have a look around. After all, I had been waiting for this day for a long time, and I wanted to savor every minute of it!
The famous cable route
Soon enough I was on the top of Half Dome, taking in the endless mountains and valleys in every direction. It may be the most breathtaking view North America has to offer. It's windy, quiet, and a peaceful perch to take in the beauty of Yosemite. Much like the Grand Canyon, pictures do not do it justice. You'll want to stay all day, but don't, your hike is only half over. We walked around a bit, got some pictures and headed back down the cables. Check out the Diving Board on top of Half Dome, it's the best view down to the valley, and the best photo op to show everyone how cool you are. Personally, I think stopping to take a photo here is incredibly dangerous, and anyone who does it must be crazy. Also, turns out I'm crazy.
View from the top of the world
Once we made it down the cables, an adrenaline rush kicked in. We made it! We conquered the Dome! Woohoo! The hike down through the wilderness and Little Yosemite Valley flew by. This excitement might be why my brother almost stepped on a rattlesnake, not noticing it was directly underfoot. Thankfully the snake rattled then slithered away, but be cautious and aware of your surroundings. Medical help won't come quick if there is an emergency, there aren't rangers nearby and cell service is spotty at best.
Soon enough we were going down the steps of Vernal Falls. The tall granite steps are no fun to climb up, but they won't be your friend coming back down either. This was honestly the worst part of the trail for me. The adrenaline rush was long gone, exhaustion set in, and I was out of water. Bring plenty of water and don't overdo it coming down the trail. Hiking poles would also help on this part of the trail, to reduce the impact on your knees and feet.
The scenery on this hike can't be beat
After a thrilling and exhausting 14 hour day we made it back to camp. I've never been so tired, yet satisfied, in my life. Maybe you've read all the way through this and wonder why the hell anyone would put themselves through that. But I hope that, if you've ever thought about doing this hike and worried about getting in shape, or worried about facing the heights, or just thought it was out of your reach, you feel differently now. I really believe if I'm capable of this hike, anyone can do it with some preparation and determination. And yes - I absolutely plan to do this hike again.
Is this hike on your bucket list? Have you already done it? Leave your thoughts or questions in the comments!
