I first read about Murphy Ranch Trail about 10 years ago, as a teenager obsessed with exploring America's oddities. The thought of a secret abandoned Nazi camp hidden in the canyons above Hollywood was an adventure-seeker's dream. After hearing that the entire ranch may soon be demolished, I knew I had to see what was left before the opportunity was gone. And because this is The Boozy Backpacker, it also seemed like the perfect chance to stop in on a brewery I've had my eye on: Lincoln Beer Company. The day did not disappoint, and I'm excited to share this experience! So let's start from the top... how in the heck did a Nazi camp end up in Los Angeles?
The History
While the specific details seem to be lost to history, the generally accepted story goes like this:
The property was purchased in the early 1930's by a Jessie Murphy, who probably never existed, since he never appears in the story again. The land was developed by Norman and Winona Stephens, along with Herr Schmidt, who were Nazi sympathizers that believed Germany would win WWII. The Stephens fronted the money to build Schmidt's dream, a self sustaining camp where members of the Silver Shirts (a pro Nazi organization) could hide out until the end of the war.
Construction began, but never finished, since the money from the Stephens ran dry. The day after Pearl Harbor, the apparently not-so-secret camp was raided by federal officials, and the buildings that had been completed were left abandoned. The buildings were briefly occupied by an artists' colony in the 60's and 70's, but a canyon wildfire drove them out in 1978.
The buildings were again abandoned, and over time were covered by graffiti and foliage. The trail was closed in 2016 while the City of Los Angeles demolished some, but not all, of the buildings. As of this writing in 2018 the trail was open with a few structures still standing, so if you want a glimpse of Murphy Ranch, now is the time to go.
The Hike
I did this hike with two friends in late June, and we had the good luck of cool, overcast weather all afternoon. The entire trail was around 4 miles, and took us 2 1/2 hours, mostly because we stopped to take pictures and explore the structures. While the abandoned camp seems to be the main attraction of this hike, you'll also see some beautiful canyon views, bright flowers, and lovely twisted trees.
Although even the trees aren't safe from graffiti
We parked in a residential area near Sullivan Ridge Fire Road (watch out for streets with a "No Parking" sign), and followed the fire road until we saw our first set of concrete stairs on the left. We were advised by others on the trail to keep going until we saw a second set of stairs, marked by this sign:
The "No Graffiti" rule is strictly enforced
The stairs down to the camp
After going down several flights of stairs, we saw a cistern on the right covered in graffiti.
The stairs, and most of the hike actually, is surrounded by dense foliage, so I wouldn't recommend wearing shorts. Down more flights of stairs we saw the first structure to our right.
The stairs, and most of the hike actually, is surrounded by dense foliage, so I wouldn't recommend wearing shorts. Down more flights of stairs we saw the first structure to our right.
Not sure what this building was originally supposed to be, and the windows and doors are boarded up to keep people from going inside. At this point you can turn around and go up the stairs and end the hike, but we followed the path a bit further.
Pictured: Probably our favorite bit of graffiti from that day
The trail from the first structure to the second isn't very long, but it does at times get pretty narrow and again, covered in foliage. It is worth it though. The second structure, which looks to be an old barn, is in pretty rough condition. The roof on the building is collapsing, the boards on the ground have nails sticking through them, and there's a beehive on the other side of the building. This probably explains why this particular structure, although not demolished, is surrounded by a chained link fence and barbed wire.
From here, we followed the trail up and out of the canyon. There were a few steep sections, but overall it was probably better than taking the stairs out. We did encounter several more bees this way, but we all just moved slow and no one got stung. At one point we turned a corner and were greeted by a large section of bougainvilia, creating a flush of violet that really was a treat for the eyes. Before we knew it we were back to the fire road and headed towards the car.
Overall, this hike had a little bit of everything. Some fascinating abandoned buildings, some wonderful natural beauty, and some challenging sections of trail. Bring a camera with a well charged battery and plenty of water.
Favorite Thing About This Hike: The abandoned camp, of course. Seeing a piece of history slowly being reclaimed by nature and the modern times speaks to the soul.
Least Favorite Thing About This Hike: Bees. So many bees.
The Brewery
This brewery is a bit of a drive from the trail, but it is worth the trip, whether you pair it with the hike or go a different day. We wrapped up our day at Lincoln Beer Company in Burbank, about a 30 min drive from Murphy Ranch (depending on traffic... everything in LA depends on traffic).
And sure, there are a hundred thousand places you could drive to in LA for a beer, but they won't be as friendly, or as relaxed, and they definitely won't have a mural of a sexy Abe Lincoln.
Case in point.
We arrived at about 3 pm on a Saturday afternoon, and after dealing with crazy Los Angeles traffic, we immediately began to unwind here. We claimed the couch against a wall and had a look around. There are games everywhere, from Jenga to darts to corn hole. Behind the bar was jars of gummy bears, each flavor having a suggested beer to pair it with. Playing in the background was a late 90's/early 2000's playlist. These details, combined with the modern decor and the view of the beer vats to remind you it is a brewery, really felt like the happiest parts of my childhood and adulthood all rolled in to one.
Speaking of childhood whimsy, be sure and grab some of their temporary tattoos!
After settling in, we took a look at the menu. There really is something for everyone here, so the obvious choice was to get a flight and try a bit of everything. Each of my friends tried the Railsplitter (an Irish red), and I got a flight of four beers which included the Lincoln Head (a light lager), the Subtle Smirk (a hazy IPA), the Anytime Fiesta (a habanero-vanilla red), and the Barrel Aged Triple C (a milk stout).
The Railsplitter and Subtle Smirk were favorites all around. The Barrel Aged Triple C was heavy and bold, and reminded me a bit of espresso. We were all a bit hesitant to try the Anytime Fiesta, but, how can you not try a habanero vanilla beer? This one was a pleasant surprise for everyone, even for my friend who is very skeptical of anything spicy. And no, it won't have you feeling like you just ate a jalapeno, it's a slightly sweet red that leaves just enough heat.
If you decide to come, take a look at their schedule online. They have a rotating schedule of food trucks stopping by, and different events going on throughout the week, including taco Tuesday and trivia night on Thursdays. And, they are dog friendly!
So would I come back? Absolutely. The staff was friendly, the beer was good, and the atmosphere is relaxing. What else could you want from a brewery?
Pictured: Three happy campers!
To summarize, there are many ways to spend a day in Los Angeles. But if creepy history, canyon views, and good beer appeal to you, then give Murphy Ranch Trail and Lincoln Beer Company a visit. Have you been to either of these locations? If so, let me know what you thought of them in the comments below!
