California is home to Joshua Tree National Park, where the Mojave Desert and Colorado Desert meet. In the summertime, triple digit heat makes a trip to the park more than uncomfortable, it can be dangerous. In the fall, however, temperatures drop to the mid 70's during the day, making this the perfect time to camp or even pass through on a day trip. And if a hike in the desert isn't enticing enough, Joshua Tree National Park is only about 12 miles away from Pioneertown. Built in 1946, Pioneertown was constructed as a filming set for western movies. Although the makeshift ghost town is still used for filming, it's buildings are also used as stores for passing tourists. The town has become a popular spot for visitors on their way to and from the Coachella music festival.
For this entry, I stopped by Pioneertown for lunch at Pappy & Harriet's, a popular bar and restaurant known for it's live shows and famous musicians who have been spotted hanging around. After lunch I headed to Joshua Tree National Park for a hike to Barker Dam and the only petroglyph site the park advertises. The beer was cold, the weather was perfect, and the sunset views were stunning!
The original plan was to stop at Pappy & Harriet's for dinner after a day of hiking. What I didn't realize was how popular this place is, especially on a Saturday night. When I called to make reservations they were full, and I was advised the wait for a table is usually 45 minutes on Saturday night. Now, plenty of people will wait longer for less, but I'm not one of them. So I came for lunch, and since my hiking partner was running behind meeting me at Joshua Tree anyway, it worked out perfect. I got there at noon, and there was a wait for a table, but some seats at the bar were still open.
Pappy & Harriet's in Pioneertown
Although they serve cocktails, a beer just sounded perfect, so that was my selection. Their drinks are served in mason jars, and although many will say the mason jar is an overdone trend, I still love it (also, I would bet Pappy & Harriet's was doing this before it was a hipster trend). I had a blue cheese burger, and my friend had a chili dog with mac n cheese. If there's any "must try" item here, it's definitely the mac n cheese! Gooey, cheesy, everything mac n cheese should be.
It's hard to go wrong with beer and mac n cheese, but the real draw to Pappy & Harriet's is the vibe. If tattooed waitresses, rock and roll, and vintage records used as decor are your thing, this is the place to be. They have artists performing almost every weekend, and if a band you really like happens to be playing here, do not miss it! The stage is ground level, and the venue isn't huge, so you'll have a chance to experience the show in a small, intimate gathering. Check their website to see their upcoming shows.
After lunch we headed to Joshua Tree National Park, for a short hike to Barker Dam and the chance to see some petroglyphs. We got to the trail head around 3 pm, and the weather was absolutely perfect; 70 degrees with a few clouds and a slight breeze. Early November is a great time for exploring this scenic desert. Barker Dam Trail is around 1.5 miles round trip, with minimal elevation gain, making it a great hike for families and people of all fitness levels. The parking lot at the trail head fills up quickly, but there's plenty of places to park on the side of the road.
The week before our trip, Joshua Tree experienced some rare, heavy rains, so we got to see the reservoir full of water, and surrounded by some grass and shrubs. We sat and enjoyed the scenery for a while, taking in the small oasis in the desert. We didn't see any of the desert wildlife that often pass through and stop for water, but we talked to a family hiking by that did see a tarantula hanging out under a nearby rock.
When you've finished taking in the reservoir, head left over the boulders to see the dam itself. Barker Dam was built in 1900, then raised in 1949. The Keys family, who seem to be the ones who raised the dam in 1949, left the following inscription:
From the dam, you will see signs pointing back to the loop trail. The next section of the trail will take you past some of the large Joshua trees that give the park it's name. It's only a short walk down this section of trail before you will see a sign pointing to the petroglyphs. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much information about the history of these petroglyphs, such as which tribe made them or how old they are estimated to be. Some of the petroglyphs have no coloring, but some are brightly painted on the rock. If they look out of place, it's because they are - those petroglyphs were painted over in the 1960's. The rumor is that Disney was shooting a movie in Joshua Tree, "Chico, the Misunderstood Coyote", and felt the petrogylphs would make for a better background of the movie if they were painted brighter. While I'm sure it did look better on film, maybe next time just create a fake background instead of vandalizing?
After you pass the petroglyphs, the rest of the trail is a short, level walk back to the parking lot. Overall, we spent an hour and half completing this trail (most of that was spent enjoying the view at the resevior) and saw a lot of the sites that make Joshua Tree famous. If you're passing through the park, Barker Dam Trail is a must see!
Good food, good beer
It's hard to go wrong with beer and mac n cheese, but the real draw to Pappy & Harriet's is the vibe. If tattooed waitresses, rock and roll, and vintage records used as decor are your thing, this is the place to be. They have artists performing almost every weekend, and if a band you really like happens to be playing here, do not miss it! The stage is ground level, and the venue isn't huge, so you'll have a chance to experience the show in a small, intimate gathering. Check their website to see their upcoming shows.
Pappy and Harriet's Wall of Fame
Very cool bottle wall
Sorry fellas, this art can only be seen in the ladies room
The well marked trailhead
It's rare to see so much water in the reservoir
Big Horn Dam - 1949
View of the dam
From the dam, you will see signs pointing back to the loop trail. The next section of the trail will take you past some of the large Joshua trees that give the park it's name. It's only a short walk down this section of trail before you will see a sign pointing to the petroglyphs. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find much information about the history of these petroglyphs, such as which tribe made them or how old they are estimated to be. Some of the petroglyphs have no coloring, but some are brightly painted on the rock. If they look out of place, it's because they are - those petroglyphs were painted over in the 1960's. The rumor is that Disney was shooting a movie in Joshua Tree, "Chico, the Misunderstood Coyote", and felt the petrogylphs would make for a better background of the movie if they were painted brighter. While I'm sure it did look better on film, maybe next time just create a fake background instead of vandalizing?
"Color enhanced" petroglyphs
Interesting tree trunk along the trail
Perfect weather and perfect views
You can see more photos from this trip on my instagram page, @theboozybackpacker and if you have a place I should visit, email me at theboozybackpacker@gmail.com.
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